Today im trying to do a pretty comprehensive video with the recipe that represents the bloom journey where it stands today. Which is to say, how I like it the best right now lol. There's always room for more tinkering and experimentation, but im really pleased with the results this recipe has provided. See what you think! So the pouring medium, or what you use to mix your colors is made up of Glidden premium paint base 3 SEMI GLOSS and Craftnique Brite tone varnish. So its 3 parts paint to one part brite tone. Then you use that and mix with paint or pigments or whatever you like to use to tint your colors. I use mostly paint and mostly tube paint. So I put about one part paint to about 3 parts pouring medium. Some colors will need to have a little distilled water added to thin because some paints are thicker than others. Metallics, for instance will always be thicker to begin with because of the mica powder in them so they will need more DI water to thin them some. You don't need a whole lot of water because remember this recipe in all its parts will be significantly thicker then what we use to do flip cups and traditional acrylic pours. The idea, the most important thing is EQUAL CONSISTENCIES! You do not want your colors to be runny compared to the pillow paint or vice versa because the paint will not all move as one on the canvas and it wont work. Which then leads me to the pillow paint or the paint we put down on dry canvas for the colors to sit on. For it, Im using Glidden premium paint Base 1. Also semi gloss. To this, I add a little (like 1/2 inch to inch) GAC 800 to prevent crazing. That's all no water added, no floetrol nothing else to the pillow. The cell activator, or the usually white (white in this video anyway) puddle of paint we add on top of our colors to make cells is made up of one part Amsterdam titanium white paint to three parts Floetrol. You can add DI water if you think you need to, but I usually don't think I need to. There are just a couple of things im doing that I don't know if others are doing or not. One is that im experimenting with adding a couple of drops of silicone to my colors. I like doing it, I think it makes more cells much the same way it does in our traditional pours. I see no ill effects from adding it, so ill probably keep doing it. The other thing is I torch mine. I think most people do not. The reason for this is I cannot pop all the little bubbles with a skewer or toothpick nor do I want to sit here picking them out for hours. As long as you just do it briefly and not too close, ive seen no problems with torching a little. Just enough to get rid of the bubbles. However, I think the torch creates more cells just like it does in regular pours. So unless something untoward happens in the future, ill probably keep doing that as well. I have not posted videos for every step in my bloom journey. There are things ive tried before I joined UTUBE all of which paled greatly in comparison to this recipe. Some of them are: paint and water, paint mixed like I do for flip cups or other techniques used in traditional pouring, ie paint and floetrol, paint and GAC 800, This recipe is by far better and if you've been working on these forever and are frustrated please try it. If you do not have the craftnique brite tone, just use polycrylic CLEAR GLOSS instead. It comes in the greenish can. You can make your pouring medium with it just mix one part polycrylic to three parts untinted base or base 3. Actually, I guess you could use any varnish you want to and mix it in that ratio. The ones ive used are polycrylic, Josonnas varnish and the craftnique. I think the first two are pretty similar and to me, the brite tone by craftnique is by far the best in that it produces more and more intricate lacing, more vibrant colors and there are cells. My greatest thanks go to Jenn Neil, who helped me when I was frustrated. I hope all this detail will help someone else because these things can be really irritating but they are worth it and it absolutely does work. These are just my opinions and thoughts based on my experiments and experiences. By NO MEANS is this the only way you will have success with the blooms and I do not pretend to have all the answers or to have figured all this out myself. This is just the things ive tried, what happened, what I did differently, suggestions I was graciously given and how I feel about it all at this moment. I hope in some way it is helpful to someone else. That's a big part of why I do this, to give and receive help or the benefit of other's experience. Another reason I do it is because I feel privileged to be able to share, discuss, contemplate and write about what I love with like minded people. So thank you, like minded people for tuning in and for spending a little of your precious time with me. And I also want to thank The Cell Block for always encouraging me and being just so kind
Today im trying to do a pretty comprehensive video with the recipe that represents the bloom journey where it stands today. Which is to say, how I like it the best right now lol. There's always room for more tinkering and experimentation, but im really pleased with the results this recipe has provided. See what you think! So the pouring medium, or what you use to mix your colors is made up of Glidden premium paint base 3 SEMI GLOSS and Craftnique Brite tone varnish. So its 3 parts paint to one part brite tone. Then you use that and mix with paint or pigments or whatever you like to use to tint your colors. I use mostly paint and mostly tube paint. So I put about one part paint to about 3 parts pouring medium. Some colors will need to have a little distilled water added to thin because some paints are thicker than others. Metallics, for instance will always be thicker to begin with because of the mica powder in them so they will need more DI water to thin them some. You don't need a whole lot of water because remember this recipe in all its parts will be significantly thicker then what we use to do flip cups and traditional acrylic pours. The idea, the most important thing is EQUAL CONSISTENCIES! You do not want your colors to be runny compared to the pillow paint or vice versa because the paint will not all move as one on the canvas and it wont work. Which then leads me to the pillow paint or the paint we put down on dry canvas for the colors to sit on. For it, Im using Glidden premium paint Base 1. Also semi gloss. To this, I add a little (like 1/2 inch to inch) GAC 800 to prevent crazing. That's all no water added, no floetrol nothing else to the pillow. The cell activator, or the usually white (white in this video anyway) puddle of paint we add on top of our colors to make cells is made up of one part Amsterdam titanium white paint to three parts Floetrol. You can add DI water if you think you need to, but I usually don't think I need to. There are just a couple of things im doing that I don't know if others are doing or not. One is that im experimenting with adding a couple of drops of silicone to my colors. I like doing it, I think it makes more cells much the same way it does in our traditional pours. I see no ill effects from adding it, so ill probably keep doing it. The other thing is I torch mine. I think most people do not. The reason for this is I cannot pop all the little bubbles with a skewer or toothpick nor do I want to sit here picking them out for hours. As long as you just do it briefly and not too close, ive seen no problems with torching a little. Just enough to get rid of the bubbles. However, I think the torch creates more cells just like it does in regular pours. So unless something untoward happens in the future, ill probably keep doing that as well. I have not posted videos for every step in my bloom journey. There are things ive tried before I joined UTUBE all of which paled greatly in comparison to this recipe. Some of them are: paint and water, paint mixed like I do for flip cups or other techniques used in traditional pouring, ie paint and floetrol, paint and GAC 800, This recipe is by far better and if you've been working on these forever and are frustrated please try it. If you do not have the craftnique brite tone, just use polycrylic CLEAR GLOSS instead. It comes in the greenish can. You can make your pouring medium with it just mix one part polycrylic to three parts untinted base or base 3. Actually, I guess you could use any varnish you want to and mix it in that ratio. The ones ive used are polycrylic, Josonnas varnish and the craftnique. I think the first two are pretty similar and to me, the brite tone by craftnique is by far the best in that it produces more and more intricate lacing, more vibrant colors and there are cells. My greatest thanks go to Jenn Neil, who helped me when I was frustrated. I hope all this detail will help someone else because these things can be really irritating but they are worth it and it absolutely does work. These are just my opinions and thoughts based on my experiments and experiences. By NO MEANS is this the only way you will have success with the blooms and I do not pretend to have all the answers or to have figured all this out myself. This is just the things ive tried, what happened, what I did differently, suggestions I was graciously given and how I feel about it all at this moment. I hope in some way it is helpful to someone else. That's a big part of why I do this, to give and receive help or the benefit of other's experience. Another reason I do it is because I feel privileged to be able to share, discuss, contemplate and write about what I love with like minded people. So thank you, like minded people for tuning in and for spending a little of your precious time with me. And I also want to thank The Cell Block for always encouraging me and being just so kind
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